When to Trim Trees: A Pro’s Guide to DIY vs. Hiring an Arborist

Take a look at the trees on your property. That big oak in the back, the maples lining the drive. Are they making you proud, or are they making you a little nervous every time the wind picks up?

Trees are a huge part of your home, but they’re often overlooked until a branch is scraping the roof or a storm is in the forecast. Many homeowners I talk to feel a little stuck. They want their trees to look good and be healthy, but they’re worried about doing the wrong thing. They’re afraid of a limb falling and damaging their property, and they’re confused by all the advice out there.

This guide is here to cut through the noise.

My goal is to give you the confidence to understand what your trees need. We’ll cover the real difference between “trimming” and “pruning,” show you what proper care actually looks like, and help you recognize when a small job is safe for a weekend and when you absolutely need to call in a professional.

After more than a decade of doing this work, I’ve seen the expensive and dangerous results of bad advice. Getting honest information from a certified arborist isn’t just a suggestion, it’s the best way to protect your trees, your home, and your wallet. Let’s get started.

Understanding the Basics: Trimming vs. Pruning

People use these words “trimming and pruning” interchangeably, but for a professional arborist, they mean two very different things. Getting it right is the difference between a simple haircut and a necessary surgery for your tree.

Tree trimming is mostly about housekeeping and aesthetics. It’s cleaning things up. You’re cutting back overgrown branches to improve the tree’s shape or to keep them from scraping your house, blocking a walkway, or growing into your power lines.

Tree pruning is about the tree’s long-term health and structural integrity. This is more strategic. When we prune, we’re selectively removing branches that are dead, diseased, or weak. The goal is to make the entire tree stronger, healthier, and better prepared to handle the future.

Here’s a simple chart to break it down:

AspectTree TrimmingTree Pruning
Primary GoalShaping for appearance, clearing obstructions, and general neatness.Improving tree health and structure for long-term survival.
FocusAesthetics and safety clearance.Health, structural integrity, and future growth.
TimingCan often be done as needed to handle overgrowth.Best done during the dormant season (winter) for major work to reduce stress on the tree.
Example ScenarioBranches are getting too close to your roof, or the tree’s shape looks messy and overgrown.You notice dead branches in the canopy, or limbs are crossing and rubbing against each other, creating wounds.

What Proper Pruning Actually Does for Your Trees?

The Common Problem

  • Large branches hang over the roof, causing worry.
  • The tree looks messy and is blocking sunlight.
  • You fear a storm could cause serious damage.

💡The Professional Solution

  • Strategic pruning removes hazardous limbs.
  • Canopy thinning improves health and aesthetics.
  • A stronger structure is built to resist weather.

So, why is this so important? It’s not just about looks. Proper pruning is one of the best investments you can make for the health and safety of your property.

It Improves the Tree’s Health and Lifespan

Think of dead or diseased branches like an infection. If you don’t remove them, the decay can spread into the main trunk, which can eventually kill the entire tree. By selectively pruning the bad parts, we stop the rot and allow the tree to heal properly. It also opens up the canopy, improving air circulation and sunlight exposure, which helps prevent fungal growth and other issues. I’ve seen countless old oaks and maples given a new lease on life just by cleaning out the deadwood and letting them breathe.

It Keeps Your Family and Property Safe

Complex Job, Professional Result
“Randy The Tree Guy and his team did an awesome job taking down a half dead 35 foot tall oak tree… He was meticulous and very organized and efficient during the process.”
— Daniel Ramey, Google Review

This is the big one. Those dead or weak branches hanging high up in the canopy have a name among professionals: “widowmakers.” They can snap and fall at any time, especially during a storm.

We see this constantly on jobs in the Jackson area. I remember a recent client, Sandra Krutsch, had two huge oak trees with major obstacles, including one right next to her house, deck, and propane tank. For her, ‘safety’ wasn’t an abstract idea, it was the entire job. By carefully planning every cut, we were able to remove those hazards without a single issue.

Using state-of-the-art machinery, from aerial lifts to specialized pulleys and friction devices, allows us to safely lower even the largest limbs in confined spaces. And let me be perfectly clear: if a branch is anywhere near a power line, do not touch it. That is a job exclusively for a fully Certified, Licensed, and Insured professional.

Protects Your Property Value

Healthy, well-maintained trees are a massive asset. They provide shade, boost curb appeal, and can significantly increase what your home is worth. An overgrown, neglected, or dangerous-looking tree does the exact opposite. The difference between a dense, cluttered tree and one that has been expertly thinned and shaped is often night and day.

Controls Pests and Other Diseases

Insects and blights often target weak or dying branches first. By removing these vulnerable entry points, you make the tree a much less inviting home for pests that could otherwise take hold and spread.

Enhances Sunlight and Opens Up Views

Do you want more sunlight to reach your lawn or garden? Strategic pruning can thin the canopy to let more light filter through without harming the tree’s overall health. We can also carefully remove specific lower limbs to open up a view you’ve been missing.

Prevents Storm Damage

Here in Michigan, we know what a heavy snow load or a summer thunderstorm can do. A tree with a strong, solid structure is far more resilient. By removing poorly attached branches and ensuring the tree has a balanced form, we make it much less likely to suffer catastrophic failure during severe weather.

When is the Best Time to Trim Your Trees?

One of the most common questions I get is, “When should I have my trees trimmed?” The answer isn’t just a date on the calendar; it’s about understanding what your tree is going through during the year.

The General Rule: Prune in the Winter

📅
Best Time for Major Pruning

The dormant season (late fall to early spring) is ideal. It minimizes stress on the tree and allows us to clearly see the entire branch structure.

Why then? A few simple reasons:

  1. It’s Less Stressful for the Tree. The tree is essentially asleep. Cutting a branch doesn’t shock its system the way it would during the peak growing season.
  2. We Can See the Structure. Without a canopy of leaves, the tree’s “skeleton” is fully visible. This allows us to easily spot weak branches, bad angles, and crossing limbs that need to be removed.
  3. It Heals Better. Pruning in the winter gives the tree the entire spring growing season to seal over the wound properly.

The Exception to the Rule: Deadwood is Different

There is one major exception: 

⚠️
Exception: Remove Deadwood Anytime

Hazardous or dead branches don’t wait for the right season. They should be removed as soon as they are identified to ensure property and personal safety.

A dangerous limb doesn’t care what season it is. It’s a safety risk, and it needs to be dealt with, whether it’s April or August.

Things to Avoid

  • Don’t Prune Flowering Trees in the Spring. If you have a tree that blooms beautifully in the spring (like a Dogwood or a Magnolia), pruning it right before it flowers means you’re cutting off all the buds. Wait until right after it has finished blooming.
  • Avoid Major Pruning in Peak Summer. Trimming during extreme heat or a drought can put a lot of stress on a tree when it’s already working hard to conserve water.

The Most Common (and Damaging) Tree Trimming Mistakes

I’ve spent years fixing the mistakes that well-intentioned homeowners or unqualified ‘tree guys’ have made. Sometimes, the biggest mistake is simply not knowing the best course of action. I often meet with clients who have a plan, but my experience allows me to see potential problems they can’t.

A client named Sandra Peterson had a great plan for her trees, but after assessing them, I was able to counsel her on a few issues that would have caused problems down the road. Her willingness to trust our professional advice is what led to a beautiful, healthy result. Most of the damage I see comes from a few common, destructive habits. Please, avoid these at all costs.

The Mistake: Topping

This involves indiscriminately cutting off the top of a tree. This leads to weak, rapid regrowth that is poorly attached and prone to breaking in storms.

The Correct Method: Pruning

This involves selectively removing specific branches to improve the tree’s structure and health, a practice known as “crown reduction” when done properly.

2. Removing Too Much at Once

A tree’s leaves are its food factories. If you remove too much of the canopy in one go, the tree can’t generate enough energy to survive and heal.

My Rule of Thumb: Never remove more than 25% of a tree’s live branches in a single year. Any more than that, and you are seriously stressing the tree.

3. Making Improper Cuts

How you cut a branch matters just as much as which branch you cut. Two mistakes are common:

  • Stub Cuts: Leaving a long stub when you remove a limb. This stub will die, rot, and provide a direct pathway for insects and disease to enter the main trunk.
  • Flush Cuts: Cutting the branch off so it’s perfectly flush with the trunk. This removes the “branch collar” the swollen area at the base of the branch. The collar contains specialized cells that the tree uses to seal the wound. Removing it creates a much larger wound that the tree can’t heal properly.

The Right Way: Always cut just outside the branch collar, leaving it intact. This allows the tree to form a natural “doughnut” of scar tissue over the cut.

Proper Cutting Technique

Always cut just outside the branch collar. This allows the tree to form a natural seal over the wound, preventing rot and disease. Avoid flush cuts and stub cuts.

4. Using Dull or Dirty Tools

A dull saw or pruner doesn’t cut; it tears. This creates a ragged wound that is slow to heal and prone to infection. Likewise, if you use tools on a diseased tree and then move to a healthy one without cleaning them, you can transfer pathogens from one to the other. Sharp, sanitized tools are non-negotiable for a clean, healthy cut.

🛠️
Use Sharp, Sanitized Tools

Dull tools tear bark and create entry points for disease. Always use clean, sharp tools for precise cuts that heal faster, and sanitize them between trees.

DIY vs. Professional: Knowing When to Call for Help

I get it. You’re handy and want to save some money.

But when it comes to tree work, a mistake isn’t like a bad paint job you can fix later. A mistake here can mean thousands in property damage, a trip to the emergency room, or worse. Here’s how to know the difference.

🏡

Safe for DIY

  • Branches are small (under 2 inches thick).
  • You can work safely with both feet on the ground.
  • The job only requires hand pruners or loppers.
🛡️

Call a Professional

  • Work requires a ladder or any climbing.
  • Branches are near or touching power lines.
  • The job requires a chainsaw.

How to Choose a Qualified Tree Trimming Service

The woods are full of people with a pickup truck and a chainsaw calling themselves a tree service. Hiring the wrong one can be just as dangerous as doing it yourself. A true professional is more than just insured; they are meticulous.

A customer, Daniel Ramey, hired us to take down a half-dead 35-foot oak tree, a job with no room for error. He later mentioned in his review that he was impressed by how ‘meticulous, organized, and efficient’ our process was. That’s the standard you should look for. A true professional protects you, their crew, and your property.

Here is your checklist. Don’t hire anyone who can’t say “yes” to all of these questions.

Your Must-Ask Questions:

  1. “Can I see proof of your General Liability and Worker’s Compensation insurance?” This is non-negotiable. If they don’t have both, you are not protected. Do not just take their word for it, ask for the certificate.
  2. “Are you an ISA Certified Arborist?” The International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) is the gold standard for knowledge and ethics in the industry.
  3. “Do you avoid harmful practices like ‘tree topping’?” A true professional will be happy to explain their commitment to proper pruning techniques that protect the tree’s health.
  4. “Will you provide a detailed, written estimate?” A professional quote breaks down the work and the cost, leaving no room for surprises.
  5. “Can you provide a few local references?” A good company will have a long list of happy customers in your area.

Red Flags to Watch Out For:

  • Door-Knockers. Be very wary of someone who just shows up at your door offering a great deal “because they’re in the neighborhood.” This is a common tactic for uninsured or unqualified operators.
  • Pressure Tactics. Anyone who pressures you to make an “on-the-spot” decision is a major red flag. A professional will give you a quote and the time to consider it.
  • “Cash-Only” Deals. This often means they are trying to avoid a paper trail, which can be a sign they aren’t a legitimate, insured business.

Take your time and get two or three bids from reputable companies. Your trees are a valuable asset. Investing in their care with the right professional is a decision you won’t regret.

A Quick Health Check for Your Trees

Let’s do a quick, simple walk-around of your property. You don’t need to be an expert to spot potential trouble. You just need to know what to look for. Ask yourself these questions about your largest trees:

  • Are large branches touching or hanging directly over your roof?
    This is more than just an annoyance; it’s a direct threat during a storm and can provide a highway for pests like squirrels and raccoons to get into your attic.
  • Do you see any big, dead, or broken branches hanging up in the canopy?
    These are the “widowmakers” I mentioned earlier. They are accidents waiting to happen and one of the most urgent reasons to call a professional.
  • Has the tree started leaning in a way it didn’t before?
    A sudden or significant lean, especially if you also see cracks in the soil or heaving ground around the base, can be a sign of root failure. This is an emergency.
  • Are there large cracks, deep holes, or mushroom-like fungus growing on the trunk or major limbs?
    These are all visible signs of internal decay. A tree can look healthy on the outside but be dangerously weak on the inside.
  • Are any branches, no matter the size, growing near or touching power lines?
    This is an immediate hazard that should only be handled by a professional crew with utility line clearance training.

The Verdict: If you answered “yes” to any of these questions, don’t try to solve it yourself. The risk is simply too high. Your next step should be to get a professional, on-site assessment from a qualified arborist.

‘Ask an Arborist’: Your Questions Answered

Over the years, I get asked the same great questions by homeowners who really care about doing things right. Here are my honest answers to the most common ones.

Q: “Can I trim a tree when it’s raining?”

A: I strongly advise against it. First, it’s a safety issue. Tools get slippery, and the risk of a fall or an accident goes way up. Second, it’s bad for the tree. Wet wood doesn’t cut as cleanly, and some diseases spread more easily in damp conditions. It’s always better to wait for a dry day.

Wait for a Dry Day

We strongly advise against trimming in the rain. Tools become slippery, increasing safety risks, and wet wood doesn’t cut cleanly, which can invite disease.

Q: “How often should my trees be trimmed?”

A: It really depends on the tree’s age, species, and location. A young tree might need structural pruning every couple of years to ensure it grows into a strong, healthy shape. A mature tree might only need to be checked every 3-5 years to have dead or hazardous wood removed. The best approach is an annual inspection to catch problems early.

Q: “What is a ‘co-dominant stem’ and why is it bad?”

A: This is when a tree trunk splits into two or more main stems of about equal size, forming a tight “V” shape. This is a major structural weakness. The connection point is often weak and can trap bark and moisture, leading to rot. In a wind or ice storm, this is one of the most common points of failure where a tree will split in half.

Q: “Will trimming my trees attract pests?”

A: Not if it’s done correctly. A proper cut on a healthy tree begins to heal almost immediately, forming a natural barrier. However, bad, ragged cuts made by dull tools, or trimming a tree that is already stressed, can create an open wound that attracts wood-boring insects. This is another reason why proper technique is so critical.

🐛
Proper Cuts Deter Pests

No. A clean, proper cut heals quickly and forms a natural barrier. It’s ragged, torn cuts from dull tools that create an inviting target for wood-boring insects.

Q: “Help! I think I cut too much off my tree. What do I do?”

A: First, don’t panic, and don’t try to “fix” it by cutting more. The most important thing you can do for the tree now is to reduce its stress. Make sure it gets plenty of water, especially during dry periods. Don’t add fertilizer, as that can force new growth and stress it even further. Your best bet is to have a professional arborist take a look to assess the damage and recommend a plan for its long-term recovery.

💧
Focus on Reducing Stress

If you cut too much, don’t panic. The best thing you can do is ensure the tree gets plenty of water, especially during dry periods, and avoid adding fertilizer.

Conclusion: An Investment in Your Trees’ Future

At the end of the day, caring for your trees comes down to a few fundamental ideas. It’s about keeping them healthy so they can live a long life. It’s about removing hazards to keep your family and your property safe. And it’s about protecting the beauty and value that they add to your home.

You now have the knowledge to look at your trees and understand what they need, moving from uncertainty to confidence. You know the difference between a simple trim and a strategic pruning. You know what dangerous mistakes to avoid, and most importantly, you know when a job is safe to consider yourself and when it’s time to call for professional help.

So, what’s your next step?

Take another walk around your property. If you spot a few small, reachable branches that need a quick snip, and you have the right tools, you can handle it.

But if you see anything that makes you pause, a large dead limb, branches near a power line, or a job that requires a ladder, that’s your signal. That’s the time to invest in peace of mind by calling a qualified and insured professional. It is the safest and most effective way to protect your property and ensure the work is done right.

After any trimming work, keep an eye on the tree. A little sap leakage can be normal, but if you notice significant dieback or wilting leaves, it could be a sign of stress.

Taking care of your trees is more than just a task on a to-do list; it’s an investment. It’s an investment in the safety of your home, the beauty of your land, and the health of the environment you live in. A well-cared-for tree will pay you back for decades to come.

About the Author: Randy Erbskorn

Owner & Lead Arborist, The Tree Guy Services LLC

With over a decade of hands-on experience, Randy is the lead arborist and driving force behind The Tree Guy Services. His expertise covers everything from complex, hazardous removals to the nuanced science of tree health and preservation. This guide is based on his professional experience serving the Jackson community.

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